Digital Photography Tips : How to Meter And Take Photographs of White Birds

Exposing for predominantly white birds in digital photography can often be a challenge, and there may be times when the white birds in your images actually look grey in the final photograph. In order to ensure your images of white birds are correctly exposed and result in actual white birds, as opposed to grey looking ones, it is important to understand the camera’s metering system and what it is trying to achieve. 

Camera meters are set to automatically expose for mid tones, therefore when taking pictures of white birds the camera may underexpose the image (hence making the birds look grey) or overexpose the image (hence clipping the highlights and losing detail in the feathers). Under exposure usually occurs when the white bird is surrounded by a light background as the camera’s meter attempts to make the white, being the lightest colour in the frame, in to a mid tone grey. Over exposure usually occurs when the white bird is surrounded by a dark background as the camera’s meter attempts to make the predominantly dark background to a grey, blowing out detail in the white highlights in the process. 

So how do we overcome this problem? The answer to this is exposure compensation.

When taking images of birds many photographers like to control the depth of field in the shots in order to isolate the bird from the background and make it stand out. Therefore, aperture is often the key in many shots of birds. When aperture is important set the camera to manual mode, dial in the desired F stop and set the camera to spot metering mode, which effectively tells the camera’s meter to consider a small part in the centre of the frame when calculating the ‘correct’ exposure. 

Next, point the camera at the lightest part of the bird where you wish to retain detail in the feathers and depress the shutter button halfway to take a meter reading. Leaving the aperture alone, adjust the shutter speed until the visual indicator reaches the zero mark, hence showing ‘correct’ exposure. The camera’s meter is now set to show the white as a mid tone colour, therefore if the image was taken with this setting the bird would be grey in the photograph. To overcome this it is necessary to apply some positive exposure compensation. Even though the white of some birds may be up to three and a half F stops (or more) less than mid tone grey it is important not to dial in too much exposure compensation as it falls outside the parameters of the camera. In the field the amount of exposure compensation should be between half a stop and three F stops to retain the detail in the feathers. 

The precise amount will vary from situation to situation, and a key skill for the photographer to learn is to know how much exposure compensation to apply in any given situation. This skill is one that is developed through trial and error, experimenting and getting intimate with the camera and experience. The above method will work in all types of conditions, whether it a bright sunny day, dull and overcast or even raining.

Written by yackers1
ACCA qualified accountant who thirives in the world of business and finance

Bird Photography – How To Take Hummingbirds

The most challenging subject in the world of bird photography is the hummingbird. This jeweled bundle of energy has the ability to zoom around at record breaking speeds causing frustration for many a photographer. This article is written to help give you some tips so you can take better hummingbird pictures.

Set out the Hummingbird Welcome Mat

Most places in North America have hummingbirds either seasonally or year round. Just ask your local Audubon Society on when you should put out your hummingbird feeders. You can also find out from them if the hummingbirds in your area need to migrate, and if so, when you should take your feeders down so they don’t get stranded in the cold.

Every serious hummingbird photographer needs a hummingbird feeder. When looking for a feeder, make sure you have one that is easy to clean and that it is easy to fill with sugar water.

Most birders suggest using 4 parts water to 1 part sugar or you can also try using a 3:1 mixture as well. Keep the feeders filled so that the hummingbirds don’t head to a more reliable nectar station. However you should take them down periodically to clean but put them right back up. Also never use food coloring because it can cause dangerous growth on the hummingbirds beaks and it’s not needed to attract them.

Hummingbird Feeders, Perches and Flowers

The biggest challenge with taking hummingbird pictures is that they rarely hold still. Hummingbirds are constantly zooming and darting so it makes it difficult to photograph them. Many photographers make the mistake of trying to follow them with their camera in hand. However, don’t do that as it is best staying in one position and being patient.

You want to think about the kind of bird pictures you want and then set things up to help increase your chances of getting the shot. After you’re all set up, all you have to do is have your camera ready and get comfortable. Many photographers use a stabilizer device like a tripod or monopod so the camera is always ready for the next shot. Some photographers use blinds so they can move without worrying about scaring off a hummingbird.

If you want photographs of hummingbirds hovering, remove the perches from your feeders. And if you plug all the holes but one it will be easier to get a pictures of one hummingbird at a time. You will still have hummingbirds zipping around trying to chase off the other birds from the feeder regardless of what you do.

Now if you want to take pictures of hummingbirds perching, watch where the dominant male goes after he fills up at the feeder. Usually, hummingbirds will perch where they have a good view of the feeder. If the perch isn’t in a good position for you to take pictures, you’ll need to do some rearranging. Move the feeder closer to a perch that works for you.

You can also move it farther from the natural perches and add a new perch that is in a photo friendly location. The hummingbird won’t mind as long as he or she can keep an eye out for intruders. Eventually the hummingbirds will get used to you and your camera, but movement will likely frighten them off so make sure you’re in a quiet area with very little activity.

If you have a particular flower that would make a lovely picture with the hummingbird but they are never there long enough for you to press the shutter release, try this photographer’s trick: Using an eye dropper, gently fill the flower with some sugar water. This only works for a short time because the flower will begin to wilt after just a few hours.

As with feeders and perches, you can also hang a basket of flowers to help attract them for photographing. However no matter if you use a flower or feeder, you’ll still only have about 8 seconds tops to take your pictures. Always be patient and don’t press the shutter release until the hummingbird has a had a sip of nectar or sugar water. Otherwise if the flash frightens them off, they won’t have as much incentive to venture back.

Check Your Background

The best background for hummingbird photography is something dark green that doesn’t have any distractions in it like brown twigs or branches. If you want a mobile background try a dark green potted plant or a painted poster board. The main thing is to have a dark background that makes the hummingbird’s colors pop.

If you look for hummingbird pictures in google images you’ll get a good idea of what backgrounds work and what doesn’t. Note how brilliantly colored hummingbirds fade into some backgrounds, like the bright green, sun lit trees and shrubs. A shaded area behind the feeder or perch also works well as a good background.

You can use photo editing software like Adobe Photoshop Elements, to blur the background and make the hummingbird stand out from the background.

You can also find tutorials on this on websites like Adobe.

Lights, Camera, Action

Once you have your hummingbird feeding station set up, now you just need to find a comfy place to sit with your camera and tripod. In order to freeze their beating wings, you will need a high speed flash but you can still get some great pictures with a good compact camera by using these tips.

Remember, hummingbirds may be the most challenging subject in bird photography, but with some patience you will soon have a nice collection of hummingbird photography to frame and display in your home.

Autumn Lockwood is a writer for Your Picture Frames. If you’re looking for a unique one of a kind gift or a gift that will go with any decor, check out this website or call 1-800-780-0699.

More Bird Photography Articles

Bird Photography Tips

A few people have emailed me asking for some bird photography tips and tricks of the trade. After some thought on the subject, I have come up with the following 10 tips for photographing birds.

Practice with the Locals. The best way to become familiar with photographing birds in your own backyard. What birds can you photograph at home? Do you have a birdfeeder or birdbath set up in your yard to draw birds in? Use these local birds to see behaviors such as how close you can get before they spook, and whether they eat at the feeder or take the food to somewhere nearby to enjoy it. Start by photographing birds in your yard to get used to their movements and feeding habits.

Timing is everything. Most species of birds eat in the morning or late afternoon. Get to know the habits of the bird that you are photographing and where it returns every day to feed.

Walk softly. Learn how to approach birds quietly and with very little movement.

This goes for all wildlife photography.

Be respectful of nature. When photographing a bird, or photographing any wildlife, never corner the animal. Be mindful that the bird has a way of escape if it gets scared. This helps to ensure that the bird does not begin to fear all humans because of one disrespectful one.

Be wary of the weather. If the weather is threatening, the birds will tuck themselves where they will be safe from the weather. It may be best to just try another day.

Know what you want. Study bird photographs. Most bird photographs were the result of countless hours of waiting, and perhaps returning for several days to the same location that the bird frequents. If the image that you seek is of an Osprey catching a fish, the odds are very small that you will just happen upon that opportunity and get it, especially with the perfect light and background.

Do not chase. It sometimes is hard to finally see the bird that you want to photograph and not chase it around wildly. Be conscious of your movements and the signals that you giving to the animal. If you act frantic, don’t you think that the bird will too?

Behaviors make the best bird photographs. Photograph birds doing natural movements such as pruning, bathing, or feeding make for much more interesting photographs than a bird sitting on a wall.

Prepare in advance. When you know where you are going, and when the bird will be there, it is easy to get a chair and tripod set up so that you are ready to photograph the bird when it arrives. Do your homework.

Be patient! I always have to reiterate this with new wildlife photographers. The bird is not going to arrive and ask for its photo to be taken! It is a blessing when the opportunity for a great photograph happens. Appreciate it!

Deidre Heindl is a professional wildlife photographer, and the owner of the site Images By Deidre. To learn more, or to see her photographs, please visit her site at:
http://www.ImagesByDeidre.net